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Beyond the Labels
This dazzling dozen of vibrant European whites and flavour-packed European reds will make you feel like you’re on holidays in France … or Italy … or Spain … or Portugal! From France, you’ve red and white Bordeaux, bestselling old-vine Cabalié Vielles Vignes and the lovely Abbesse Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. Italy presents the joyous il Papavero Bianco, a fruit-filled Sicilian Grillo, and the top selling Pillastro Primitivo. Delicious! Head to Spain for a gorgeous Verdejo and the lovely, ocean-fresh Perla del Mar, a luscious Monastrell (Mataro) blend from the cult Jumilla region and a silky aged Garnacha from Campo de Borja. Last, from “exciting” (Wine Spectator) Portugal, you’ve a lavish black red dazzling with two Gold.
For quality and value, Abbesse Sauvignon Blanc is hard to beat and an all-time customer favourite. It's from our friends, the Bougrier family, with whom we've worked for the last 20+ years. Every year, they search out the best parcels of grapes from Touraine, the Pays Nantais (home to Muscadet) and other regions where the grape shines to get the perfect balance of bright fruit and elegant, citrus zip. They've named the wine in honour of the original Abbesse of the famous Abbaye de Fontevraud nearby, Louise de Bourbon, a major figure in Loire history. This delicious expression of the region’s reigning grape is a fitting tribute to her. Delicious chilled as a glass on its own, it's also a classic with goat’s cheese and all sorts of seafood.
As the late Spanish wine expert John Radford once wrote in Decanter, the tiny enclave of Campo de Borja is “the source of some of the best value wines from Spain, if not the world”. It remains true. Where else could you find such a mellow, complex, oak-aged red at this price? It’s made by our old friend Pamela Geddes at the 500-year-old Bodegas Ruberte. 60% of the wine is Garnacha from vines planted in 1958. They’re not as prolific these days, but the intensity of flavour in the grapes is impressive. The balance is Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds classic cassis character and structure to the spicy, raspberry-rich Garnacha. A rich, velvety-smooth, fragrant Spanish red with vanilla hints imparted by oak. A great choice with lamb or tapas.
The noise surrounding Bordeaux is usually focused on the unreachable first growths. But, if you know where to look, there are bargains to be found. After 50 years of practice, our talent lies in sniffing out great-value, quality wines. Ludovic Roussillon’s Château Le Coin is the perfect example. Thanks to the strict, historic appellation boundaries, Ludovic’s estate shares the same fine, Saint-Emilion limestone soil, but falls just outside the official boundary, on the other side of the river. Meaning top-shelf liquid but without the pain of the price. He’s a one-man-band, growing his own grapes and making his own wine, so you’ll never see him out of his blue overalls. His efforts pay off, winning countless Golds for his silky, rich claret. Smooth and silky with ripe damson, cassis fruit; hints of spicy oak and aromas of tobacco.
This is an intensely flavoured, weighty red, similar in style to the rich, powerful and highly sought after reds of Priorat. The big difference, however, is the price – a fraction of that asked for Priorat wines. It was made at the Padró family cellar, founded in 1898, which draws on the expertise of winemaker Mario García. He has had experience throughout Spain (including Priorat, Montsant and Penedès), and has achieved many 5-Star ratings from top wine guide Guía Peñín. Combining concentrated, old bush vine (up to 70 years old) Monastrell (known to us as Mourvèdre or Mataro) plus a portion of strawberry-scented Tempranillo, it’s a lavish and layered wine that’s really hard to resist. It's a brilliant partner to grilled meats, or pair it with your next tapas feast. Delicious!
Anywhere, anytime! The Papaveros are Italy’s friendliest family of wines and this refreshing white provides a terrific introduction. Most Italian winemakers are fiercely proud of their region. Winemaker Scipione Giuliani is fiercely proud of Italy. And hugely passionate about quality and value. He says he can’t choose the weather each vintage so he chooses instead the ‘luckiest’ regions for the ripest, tastiest grapes – Abruzzo and Sicily in this case. It’s what makes Il Papavero Bianco so consistently spot on. We call it the ‘Poppy factor’ and it makes for mouthwatering stuff! Open one of Italy’s most reliably delicious whites as a pre-dinner drink or with soft cheeses, salads or seafood dishes. We guarantee you’ll be back for more.
South of Lisbon on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, the Setúbal Peninsula is famous for its rolling Atlantic waves and its long lived, fortified dessert wines. However, the sunny climate, tempered by cooling ocean breezes, is also proving itself with bold, fruit forward reds. Parker rated winemaker Jaime Quendera firmly believes in the region and is dedicated to bringing it to the world’s attention. He was the man behind the ‘Best Red Wine in the World’ a few years back. This 2020 is a sumptuous blend of native Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), Syrah and Cabernet. Delicious with pork and chorizo casserole or chicken dishes.
Perla del Mar is the white sibling to the tasty Perla Negra. It comes from a special coastal vineyard called La Marina, 35 miles from Alicante. The wine’s delightfully fresh and fruity style is thanks to the grape selection (mainly the fragrant and ‘grapey’ Moscatel), the fact that the vineyards are surrounded by sea to the north, south and east, and, finally, to the modern methods of talented winemaker Pamela Geddes. Having been in charge of sparkling wine production for Seppelt in Australia, she knows all about keeping flavours crisp and fruity in warm climates. Perla del Mar is an elegant, refreshing wine with a vibrant, lime zest core and hints of lychee and other tropical fruits. It’s the archetypal summer apéritif – all year round!
Pillastro is one of our bestselling Italian reds – customers love all that richness, warmth and bold, ripe fruit. It comes from Puglia, in Italy’s deep south, best known for big, smoky wines made from the prized local variety Primitivo. This 2021 is from Angelo Maci, a hero in the region for standing up to the big guns and championing the small grower. He started the cellar 40 years ago with 15 growers, now there are 1,000 and he knows them all by name. It's not only growers he saves, but the ancient traditions that make these wines so rich, characterful and super-charged. A leading figure in the quality revolution, he's now teamed up with his daughter, Melissa, as winemaker. A rich, powerful red and a great match to spicy tomato pasta.
As was noted by The Guardian, “Palacio de Menade has a fine, cool vibrancy that will appeal to those who relish Sancerre.” In fact, just like that famous Loire appellation, Castilla y León has fine chalky soils, ideal for aromatic whites. Although grown here and adored locally for 1,000 years, Verdejo is only now coming to the fore internationally. It's thanks in part to local supremos like the Sanz family. They combine six generations of tradition with state-of-the-art technology to produce Palacio’s breezy, citrus and apricot freshness. Mostly bright Verdejo, with a little Viura (the primary grape for white Rioja), and a splash of Sauvignon for good measure, it's deliciously crisp and the perfect pairing with fresh seafood or paella.
Winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua has won Trophies and Golds galore for his Bordeaux whites and this 2020 shows him on top form. For the Le Grand Chai range of wines he uses his enviable network of contacts to source top batches of wine from superior properties that need a home. He has discovered a top pick with this rich, complex white. The first sip reveals hallmark verve and zest with added sophistication, body and a lingering hint of toastiness - not from oak, but from its two years of age. 2020 was an exceptional vintage, so the fruit quality is a delight – great ripeness and intensity, with the acidity to allow a white wine like this to age well. Grassy, herbaceous, gooseberry and citrus aroma with a hint of honey. A real modern classic – serve lightly chilled with asparagus or with fine seafood.
Sicily is our top tip right now for flavour and value. You see, not only do the island's sparkling seas and rolling mountains make for seductive vistas, they also make for some delicious wine. Like this Don Pino, a seriously moreish organic Grillo (the white the locals usually keep for themselves). It's named after one of the oldest grape growers in Sicily’s Belice Valley, Don Pino. Each vintage Don Pino sends his grapes to the local village winery. But last year his grapes were so good, the head winemaker set them aside to make this special wine. Teasing with apple blossom, citrus, orchard fruits and herbal hints, this is a guaranteed hit for fans of Sauvignon or Pinot Grigio. We recommended enjoying it with fresh bruschetta or seafood.
Hervé Sabardeil, our winemaker with limitless talent, has been making Cabalié, the big, ripe Catalan red, for over 15 years. He added the old-vine (Vieilles Vignes) edition in 2011, originally as a one off, but it was so popular we insisted he did it again. And again! The magic to this punchy red is really in the vines. At 60 to 100-years-old, yields are minute (about half of a Grand Cru claret). As a rule of thumb, the smaller the yield, the more concentrated the fruit, the more flavoursome the wine! That’s why we call it Cabalié’s Big Brother. Still made in the same style that was beloved by the Roman centurions and now our customers too, it packs even more flavour than the original. Ideal with garlic-roasted lamb, rich stews or cheese. “Nose of black fruits with white pepper and liquorice touches. Silky, solid attack driven by stewed fruits. A great wine...” (Gold medal, Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge).
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