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Sip the finest vineyards of France, Italy, Spain and Portugal with this gorgeous dozen of European reds. Start in France with a special old-vine edition of bestselling Cabalié from the sun-blessed south. Head to Italy’s sun-drenched south for the intensely dark and delicious Pillastro Nero and Il Brutto Negroamaro Primitivo, then to Spain a Monastrell (Mataro) blend from the cult Jumilla region. Last, indulge in a luscious Gold-winning black red from Portugal which shows why Wine Spectator calls it the “most exciting wine place on the planet.”
If you’re a fan of the sort of reds you can only get from ancient, ultra-sunny vineyards, then chances are you’ll love Il Brutto. So low-yielding and unprofitable were these heirloom Negroamaro and Primitivo vines that the growers in Puglia were contemplating bringing in the bulldozer to rip them out, so they could plant something more profitable. However, champion of the region and its great traditions, Angelo Maci (triple awarded 'Winemaker of the Year') persuaded them that the fruit of these old vines could make a magnificent rich red. The vines’ twisted trunks may be ugly (‘brutto’) to outsiders, but they’re things of beauty to those in the know. Smooth, full and packed with spicy fruit – big, ripe bramble and damson flavours with lavish herbal spice. This treasured red is a treat with hearty dishes.
As the late Spanish wine expert John Radford once wrote in Decanter, the tiny enclave of Campo de Borja is “the source of some of the best value wines from Spain, if not the world”. It remains true. Where else could you find such a mellow, complex, oak-aged red at this price? It’s made by our old friend Pamela Geddes at the 500-year-old Bodegas Ruberte. 60% of the wine is Garnacha from vines planted in 1958. They’re not as prolific these days, but the intensity of flavour in the grapes is impressive. The balance is Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds classic cassis character and structure to the spicy, raspberry-rich Garnacha. A rich, velvety-smooth, fragrant Spanish red with vanilla hints imparted by oak. A great choice with lamb or tapas.
This is an intensely flavoured, weighty red, similar in style to the rich, powerful and highly sought after reds of Priorat. The big difference, however, is the price – a fraction of that asked for Priorat wines. It was made at the Padró family cellar, founded in 1898, which draws on the expertise of winemaker Mario García. He has had experience throughout Spain (including Priorat, Montsant and Penedès), and has achieved many 5-Star ratings from top wine guide Guía Peñín. Combining concentrated, old bush vine (up to 70 years old) Monastrell (known to us as Mourvèdre or Mataro) plus a portion of strawberry-scented Tempranillo, it’s a lavish and layered wine that’s really hard to resist. It's a brilliant partner to grilled meats, or pair it with your next tapas feast. Delicious!
In Italy's deep south, Puglia offers “undreamed-of character and potential” (Hugh Johnson) and “reds that give you a lot of wine for your money” (Decanter). Take Pillastro Nero. It's the work of champion of the region Angelo Maci, who started the Cantine Due Palme cellar in 1989 to save the growers and the region's traditions. Since then they've been Winery of the Year three times, while Angelo Maci has multiple winemaker titles and a Lifetime Achievement award. This premium edition uses Cabernet and Primitivo grapes from 80-year-old vines, all trained the special Alberello Pugliese way for great depth of flavour. Ageing in French oak barrels adds spice to this rich, weighty red. Decant and serve with roast meats or a rich pasta dish.
South of Lisbon on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, the Setúbal Peninsula is famous for its rolling Atlantic waves and its long lived, fortified dessert wines. However, the sunny climate, tempered by cooling ocean breezes, is also proving itself with bold, fruit forward reds. Parker rated winemaker Jaime Quendera firmly believes in the region and is dedicated to bringing it to the world’s attention. He was the man behind the ‘Best Red Wine in the World’ a few years back. This 2020 is a sumptuous blend of native Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), Syrah and Cabernet. Delicious with pork and chorizo casserole or chicken dishes.
Hervé Sabardeil, our winemaker with limitless talent, has been making Cabalié, the big, ripe Catalan red, for over 15 years. He added the old-vine (Vieilles Vignes) edition in 2011, originally as a one off, but it was so popular we insisted he did it again. And again! The magic to this punchy red is really in the vines. At 60 to 100-years-old, yields are minute (about half of a Grand Cru claret). As a rule of thumb, the smaller the yield, the more concentrated the fruit, the more flavoursome the wine! That’s why we call it Cabalié’s Big Brother. Still made in the same style that was beloved by the Roman centurions and now our customers too, it packs even more flavour than the original. Ideal with garlic-roasted lamb, rich stews or cheese. “Nose of black fruits with white pepper and liquorice touches. Silky, solid attack driven by stewed fruits. A great wine...” (Gold medal, Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge).
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