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Boris Kovac is something of a purist at his cellar in deepest Roussillon. His property is completely off the grid, with electricity from a generator, water from a well. In 2013 he completed a tiny cellar - a simple room, with all the necessary kit - dug into the hillside, so even in summer it's cool. His pride and joy, however, are his 11 hectares of vineyards - 48 year old Syrah and Carignan planted 60-100 years back. Picked bunch by bunch and fermented in the tiny cellar, the wine is quite a treasure, aged in vat and barrel (a tiny portion new) for a year. Vibrant, fresh and bold, this is full of the ripe herbal and peppery flavours of the warm south. A rewarding glass with richly sauced beef, cassoulet or a hearty vegetarian lasagne.
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